Thursday, 5 February 2026

Xalapa Veracruz

 Huh.  I just checked out my blog entries from 2022, and it looks like I didn't write a single thing about the two days we spent in Xalapa (pronounced Jalapa) on that trip.  Surprising!  It was one of the highlights.

Xalapa is located in the mountains between Mexico City and the Gulf Coast, is the capital of the state of Veracruz, and is home to the University of Veracruz. All of that makes the city of roughly 800,000 a bustling place with a moderate climate.  The historic centre of town is pretty, there are a lot of parks and greenery all over, and, as Harvey likes to say "the town is clean and the people look happy".

Parque Juarez -- Xalapa's central square

Central church getting a touch-up

Historic State Government Building

Busy downtown street in the evening

Random residential street

Courtyard with restaurants near our hotel

Honestly, while the city has some things to offer tourists, mostly Xalapa just feels comfortable -- not too big, not too small, lots of cultural events, some appealing-looking bookstores (if only I read the language more fluently), a big central library, posters for yoga classes, lots of coffee shops and bakeries, and a superfluity of pizza restaurants.
Biblioteca Carlos Fuentes

I don't know how to capture this visually, but the number of Italian restaurants in the centro is truly ridiculous!  We kept searching google maps for places to eat, particularly for dinner in the evenings, and most of our choices were coffee shops, Mexican places that closed by 5:30pm, and pizza places. Honestly, there are at least 3 within a block and a half of our hotel.

Despite the restaurant issue, Xalapa feels like somewhere that I could imagine living (if I and the world were different).



Somehow we're in Mexico again

It all started with the idea that we travel to Colombia to go birding.  As we started to make that idea into a plan, we discovered that our best flight to Bogota included a change of planes in Mexico City.  Suddenly our plans included two weeks in Mexico.  Bonus feature of this plan -- the elevation of Bogota is 2640m and we live at sea level.   Spending some time in CDMX (elevation 2240m) beforehand would give us some time to adapt.

We've been to Mexico City before, and looked forward to spending some more time there after our last abbreviated visit. But.....


Mexico City is big, it's crowded, and it's a little overwhelming.  Don't get me wrong, we saw some amazing things in our first two full days in CDMX.  

Palacio Bellas Artes.

 
Museo Vivo del Muralismo

Museo Nacional de Antropología

But we were also a little over-confident about travelling to Mexico after having been here 6 times before, and we neglected to refresh our memory on a few practicalities.  So we got ripped off on our taxi fare on arrival (we paid about double what we should have), messed up the activation of our Mexican SIM cards, and ended up eating some mediocre meals.  Oh, and I didn't spend enough time on my Duolingo listening exercises and had trouble understanding what anyone was saying.

Nothing terrible, but I wasn't displeased to leave for Xalapa on Day 3.