Visiting Veracruz

 

We first visited Veracruz in 1995, on our way back from a three month trip to Guatemala, Honduras, and El Salvador.  We only overnighted that time, to break up a long bus ride North to catch our plane in Mexico City.  

Some things haven't changed.  There's still music and dancing every night in the historic central square.  Sure it's touristy: but it's also traditional, and the tourists are Mexican.

The Gran Cafe del Portal cafe is still here too.  We had a memorable supper and a memorable cup of coffee there in 1995, and white-coated waiters still foam your latte by pouring hot milk into your glass from a height.  In my memory the pouring was more dramatic (with waiters raising the pots of milk above their heads) but either the waiters now aren't as accomplished, or my memory is imperfect.  But the place is still lovely and is mostly frequented by locals: multi-generational family groups, a group of motorcycle cops wearing matching T-shirts, a group of nuns enjoying fruit milkshakes and sweet bread, and individual diners being greeted by passers-by as they eat breakfast at one of the outdoor tables.  A sign inside says that the cafe has been in operation since 1889.

Some things are undoubtedly different.  We did a kayaking tour in a mangrove swamp south of town on Saturday with a local biologist who does this as side-business alongside his day job with the local Fish and Wildlife service.  

He told us that 20 years ago his hometown, Boca del Rio, was a separate city from Veracruz.  Today it looks like a suburb.  When you drive down the highway to Laguna Mandinga Grande, Boca del Rio is indistinguishable from the cities before and after it.  All you see from the highway is a continuous strip of hotels, restaurants, and big box stores.  It looks just like suburban Canada except here the stores are named Chedruai, Soriana, Pemex, and Carl Jrs instead of Walmart, Canadian Tire, Husky, and A&W.  

But we can't really compare our 18 hours here in 1995 with our three days in 2022.  This time we spent a couple of days visiting local attractions.  None of them matches what you can see in Mexico City, but I don't regret opting for a slower entry into Mexico.  I've rarely regretted taking the less travelled path.